Positive Yarn

From left are moderator Jill Wolcott (standing, far left), and panelists Chris de Longpre, Karin Skacel Haack, Cecil Miskin, Lisa Shroyer and Kate Lemmers.

During The National NeedleArts Association’s Summer Market in Columbus, OH, this weekend, I had the pleasure of watching five successful industry professionals share their insights during a panel session hosted by the Association of Knitwear Designers (AKD). The session, “Achieving Mutual Goals In The Yarn Industry,” took place Friday evening right before AKD’s Fashion Show.

Moderated by AKD President Jill Wolcott, who is also the creative director of Y2Knit, the panelists included:

• Chris de Longpre, Knitting at KNoon Designs
• Kate Lemmers, Kate Lemmers Designs
• Cecil Miskin, Buffalo Gold
• Lisa Shroyer, Interweave Knits
• Karin Skacel Haack, Skacel Collection

PLANNING

Wolcott got the ball rolling by asking panelists about their planning habits.

“You can’t be successful without planning,” said de Longpre. “Start with a plan, measure how you’re doing, and be flexible. But that piece of planning is the basis of all the decisions I make.”

She added that she bases her designing schedule on the Spring, Summer and Winter TNNA markets, and tries to stay literally 18 months ahead. (This revelation drew audible gasps from the audience in awe and envy, including myself!)

de Longpre also touched on the importance of planning your marketing efforts. Skacel Haack agreed, noting that there are times when about 90% of her work is simply working on plans.

“Planning is part of business. How else do you know when you get to your goal?” quipped Miskin, who had earlier described his career path as “raising buffalo almost 30 years, been in fiber seven minutes,” thanks to his family’s interest in using the buffalo wool.

As a former magazine editor, I sympathized completely with Shroyer’s statement that her magazine deadlines are set in stone, and that solid planning is essential to reaching them. She notes that there’s about nine months from the call for submissions to print.

Lemmers was seated the farthest away from de Longpre, and the visual concept of spanning the spectrum was enhanced further by her admission that she “plans” her day when she opens her email and sees the next thing that’s due. Her teasing about working so she could eat drew knowing laughs from the audience.

PARTNERING

Wolcott next asked the team about what they consider to be good partnerships, and Skacel Haack was the first to report the workable arrangement between her company — a yarn importer — and designers whose patterns incorporate those yarns.

“We supply the yarn, they create the patterns, we sell and they sell,” she explained, noting that often, Skacel gets the inital pattern order, then customers tend to reorder directly from the designer. But no matter, she added: “As long as the pattern is out there, I don’t care. I don’t pay a dime for her to design it. She makes money for every pattern I sell and she sells. We promote it.”

de Longpre, who has also designed for a variety of manufacturers, advises simply to “work as a team, and everyone is a success.”

Miskin agreed, citing multiple arrangements with designers for his company’s various yarns. “You have to understand there has to be give; everyone gives and everyone gets. Everyone has a need. Be honest with that need — with yourself as well as others.”

“Don’t undercut price,” Skacel Haack said, “and know how to negotiate.”

Shroyer noted that the magazine is provided with free yarn with which to knit the samples. She was asked whether price points are taken into consideration, and replied, “We do the best we can. The editors choose the yarns.”

Lemmers provided another view, admitting that although she was a “yarn snob,” she works within the constraints of the fiber types and palate with which she’s been assigned. That’s when having a good relationship with the manufacturer can really work to her advantage: “Then I know I can say, ‘I’d like to use this (instead).’”

CONSUMERS

Wolcott asked the panel whether they thought there was a stronger voice from the consumer as to input on which designs work — and which don’t.

“Not stronger, but more immediate,” said de Longpre. “It used to be six months before you knew a pattern was a dud. Now, we can measure (feedback) on Ravelry. It gives us access to consumer opinion we didn’t have before.”

The discussion turned to the thorny issue of free downloads. While it can dilute the value of paid patterns, it’s often what consumers are looking for. Skacel Haack admitted to a recent search for a simple afghan square freebie, but de Longpre saw the silver lining: Measuring trends by the popularity of certain patterns.

“If everyone’s searching for free patterns on baby blankets, you might think ‘ooh, how can I get in on it?’” she pointed out. “But just remember, free patterns do need to be supported, so there’s more work that you’re not getting paid for.”

Shroyer believes free patterns can appeal to a wider audience. If your free pattern is of decent quality, they might return for your other patterns. “There’s definitely room for it,” she said.

Miskin reported that Buffalo Gold is selective about its patterns, but those that are chosen are given free of charge to its retailers. “They can resell them or give them away, but we need those patterns to sell yarn,” he added. “Remember, Bill Gates gave away the software (to sell his computers).”

STANDARDIZATION

When Wolcott initially asked the panel about standardization, I believe she was looking at how to download online and that sort of thing. Her panel, however, decided to get into sizing issues — and Wolcott was happy to oblige.

de Longpre wanted to see more plus size patterns, using bust size as the standard.

Shroyer responded that while that was “nice in theory, in practice it never works.” Lemmers noted this was especially true depending on the fit of the design — a tank top vs. a flowing skirt, for example.

“Heck, if the garment industry can’t get it right, how we can expect to?” Skacel Haack chimed in, noting that while her husband is a 34×34 regardless of brand, the measurements of a woman’s size 6, for example, can vary widely.

Shroyer agreed, however, that keeping up pressure for additional size availability for patterns can only be a good thing.

Lemmers asked about a standardized charting system for each magazine, to which Shroyer noted that the Craft Yarn Council of America recently hammered this out, although not every magazine has implemented it. (In case you’re not familiar with it already, check it out at YarnStandards.com. As Wolcott noted, “sizing is there, too… at least it’s a good place to start!”)

Q&A SESSION

The informal question-and-answer period was lively, with panelists and audience alike agreeing that it would be great if knitters used swatches to determine gauge when adapting a pattern. There was discussion about using a “virtual pattern book” to download on demand, and thus free up shop real estate currently housing leaflets and books to instead showcase more yarn. Another audience member lamented the minimum order of patterns — ordering 12, selling three and eating the cost when the yarn it was meant to complement is discontinued.

The conversation then turned to how the panelists felt about anyone posting a pattern for free download or sale and joining the ranks of “professional” designer. Shroyer had a particularly interesting take on the subject:

“You’d think as publishers we’d disagree. But we like both (independent designers and those collaborating with a yarn company),” she said. “If we publish it, we produce it, but we get your URL and your bio published there, too. In our opinion, the more people that are interested in knitting, the better!”

de Longpre agreed with the enough-pie-for-everyone sentiment: “There’s a lot of need out there.”

PARTING SHOTS

Wolcott wrapped up the hour-long event by asking each panelist to sum up his or her advice for the audience:

de Longpre: “Quality control, marketing, teamwork and compromise.”

Skacel Haack: “Teamwork, negotiate, be professional — stick to deadlines! — and planning.”

Miskin: “You can want, or you can do. It’s about planning, negotiating, listening and being open to new things, like standardization.”

Shroyer: “Professionalism goes a long way.”

Lemmers: “Do what you love!”

The AKD plans to have a video of this event posted to its YouTube channel soon, similar to its panel discussion that took place at TNNA’s Winter Market in Long Beach, CA, in January. When they do, I’ll update readers. To view Part I of the January video, however, check out below:

I recently came across a press release touting the results of a brand-new study from the Craft & Hobby Association. (To see the release in its entirety, click here.)

Designer Beth Gantz may be onto something sweet and delicious: combining needlepoint with "cake decor"!

The 2009 Attitude & Usage (A&U) Study surveyed approximately 6,000 households to see how many craft projects they did during the year. Although there was an estimated $27. 4 billion spent on crafting (supplies, classes, etc.), the study found that the percentage of participating households has remained at a steady 56% — the same as in the previous three years, in fact. In 2008, sales were $27.3 billion, so that’s not exactly a huge gain. But on the other hand, there’s something to be said for it not being a loss.

“The A&U Study tracks trends in four broad categories comprised of General Crafts, Needle & Sewing Crafts, Painting & Finishing Crafts, and Floral Crafts,” the release explains. “During 2009, the General Crafts category represented 44% of industry sales and was +18% over the prior year.  Strong category performance was driven by growth in the Woodworking, Cake Decorating, and Jewelry Making segments.”

While the other three categories saw declining sales overall, there were some segments within that did well: “Home Decor Painting/Accessorizing/Finishing, Knitting, and Wedding/Bridal crafts all grew in 2009.”

The study ranked the Top 10 segments, based on sales and participation, and it’s little surprise that scrapbooking remains No. 1. While many of us have all the paper, stamps and stickers we could ever hope to complete albums with to last a couple lifetimes, it seemed that handmade gifts from the heart — like a special memory box for grandma at Christmas, for example — were popular. (For the record, cardmaking is broken out from the scrapbooking category and is ranked at No. 7.)

Because we are taking more “staycations,” it also makes sense that home decor comes in at No. 2. If we’re stuck at home, we might as well spruce it up, right?

I suggest needlepoint businesses in particular take note of what came in after No. 3-ranked woodworking: cake decorating and art/drawing at No. 4 and No. 5, respectively.

Whether you’re talking color, clean lines or overall artistry, there are definite parallels to cake design and needlepoint design. In fact, Medina’s own Sandy Rodgers was a very well respected cake designer before she turned her considerable talents loose on the more permanent medium of fabric — check out her gorgeous work on her “Life Before Embroidery” page here. (And if you’re not familiar with her current needlework, for shame! Click here!)

If your local bakery is offering cake-decorating classes, for example, see whether there’s some synergy to be had with their students. Offer to promote their teaching schedule in your shop if they do the same for yours, with flyers touting something to the effect of “Got cake? Get canvas!” Or perhaps co-sponsor a seminar on color choices.

Similar opportunities may lie with the local community center’s introduction to drawing and painting classes. Offer to be a guest speaker and show in what ways painting on a canvas to be stitched can be similar to and different from just regularly listening to your muse.

I’m actually surprised that jewelry-making came in at No. 6, because it seems so popular with crafters of all ages — and especially working moms. Projects you can do with a glass of wine on your right and a good conversationalist on your left, and still get something beautiful completed in less than three hours, are few and far between. Still, traditional shops take note: Once consumers get the “bead bug,” so to speak, they’re looking to embellish everything they can. Do you have beads on display that can complement certain projects? Selected packets of beads to add sparkle to that shawl they’re currently working on? Quick kits to work up a beaded key fob to go with that new felted purse? Tiny needlepoint frames that can go on a chain and let them show off their work like their Victorian counterparts once did?

Perhaps most important to note is what the study found to be the main motivators for crafting. At No. 1 was a sense of accomplishment. Think about that: Are you letting your customers know that you’re proud of their work? You, the expert, are seeing them transform from novice to skilled artisan with each project they complete? Are you giving encouragement to students who are looking at a mistake or a daunting task, and showing them just how much they have achieved already? When they ask for your input on choosing a project, are you considering how much they can challenge themselves without getting in over their heads?

That final point is important because of Motivator No. 2, relaxation!

I encourage you to read over all the survey’s results, and see how they apply to how you’re currently doing business. The release has a lot of info on its own, but CHA makes a full review of their results available for purchase.

I’d love to keep the conversation going, so please share your questions and insights in the comments section below, or drop me a line at positiveyarn@goochandgooch.com.

I say promotional items; you say… what? Logoed pens? Stress-relieving squish balls? Wall calendars?

These trinkets have their place at community fairs or by your register, for example, but there are a host of other — still affordable — items that you can use to get your business name out there. Here are just a few ideas to think about incorporating into your 2010 marketing plan, and if nothing else, perhaps I’ve just made your holiday shopping for your team and favorite customers a little easier!

Please note that the links are just representative of what’s out there; they’re not an endorsement of any specific promotional product providers:

• private-label hand sanitizer: These 2-oz. bottles can be a welcome addition to your customers’ pockets or purses as they run their errands (including a stop back at your shop, of course). Pass the out before a class, for example, so that everyone’s hands are clean before they pick up their needles. A 1-oz. keychain gel version or pen-sized version on a lanyard are also popular.
• flip-top mirrors: Using a mirror can be helpful when trying to get a quilt design just right, for example, or when doing other crafts. If an upcoming project includes using a pocket mirror to help map out the design, why not use the kind that has your name, address and Web site on it, too?
• water bottles: As a modern alternative to the coffee mug, this product also encourages your customers to not only drink healthier, but also cut down on the risk of spilling coffee or soda on a project or merchandise (that is, if you even allow drinks in class to begin with!). If you have a core group that’s thinking about getting in shape, why not try the gallon-size bottles: The average person is supposed to take in 64 oz. of water per day, and these bottles are designed for you to fill in the morning and have them empty by evening. Make it a contest — who can lose the most weight by the end of a given period simply by substituting water for their lattes?

T-shirts and tote bags are perennial favorites, especially when they’re used to commemorate a special event. Zazzle.com not only lets you design your own, but its member “community” has uploaded a number of items ready-made that might be appropriate. Do a search for “Knitting Gifts,” and among the many gifts you’ll find T-shirts asking “If I knit fast enough, does it count as aerobics?”; mugs that warn “You can make fun of my knitting but remember…. I’m the one with the pointy sticks!”; and a tote featuring a humorous cartoon about what happens when a guy says knitting is for old ladies. There’s even a knitting-themed Christmas card! All of these items can be furthered personalized with your business information, or purchased as-is if you prefer.

Crocheters, cross-stitchers and needlepointers, you each have plenty to choose from as well (my favorites include a “Real Men Crochet” T-shirt, a poster that says “Never trust an acupuncturist whose license is in needlepoint; and an apron that asks “To cross-stitch or not to cross stitch… What a stupid question.”) After all, what student wouldn’t want a hoodie that shows her graduation from “Needlepoint University”?

So now it’s your turn. What promotional items have you used with success? Are you stocking these items as merchandise in the shop, or are you using them strictly as prizes for participation in a loyalty program, for example? Have you seen a genuine return on investment, or do you see it more as an investment in relationship-building? Sound off below or send me an email at positiveyarn@goochandgooch.com.

Happy holidays, and here’s to a great 2010!

I’m in Indianapolis for a conference this week, and as I type this the Minnesota Vikings have just beaten the Indianapolis Colts (13-3, for you sports fans). So I suppose it’s fitting that I speak about Viking knitting.

Although this jewelry-making technique is purported to have been around for centuries, it was a brand-new term for me when I came across it in the spouse activities section of the conference guide. In fact, I made my husband (one of three partners in DesolationRPG.com, and thus my reason for being at Gen Con in the first place) look up the term on his iPhone before I commited to signing up for the class. After all, Gen Con, which is devoted to all things gaming, brings out the inner geek in many attendees. Chances are good that the same low-key, otherwise-yuppie neighbor of yours who “has to go to Indiana in August” is actually out here wearing a full Darth Vader suit, or perhaps a Jack Sparrow costume, or even affecting some Japanese anime homage. More likely, though, he is wearing the gamer’s uniform of khaki shorts and a black T-shirt with some snappy saying like “I logged out for this?”

For the record, the crowd we hang with sticks mostly to the black tees. Still, the intermingling of Colts fans and GenCon attendees on a Friday evening, wrangling for dinner reservations, was a sight to behold.

Once I found out that Viking knitting was not being led by someone wearing a helmet and long braids, I got reprieve from my “booth babe” duties yesterday afternoon and went off to class.

Led by Jari Sheese, owner of Boca Loca Beads, the technique was surprisingly easy to learn. Unfortunately, while I got the concept in theory, my execution of it was not pretty. But Jari is an excellent teacher: She was patient and worked one-on-one with me to get my tension more even (which is one of my biggest obstacles in all of the needle arts), and over the course of the three-hour class was very hands-on and helpful to all 10 students there.

When I started wrapping the (suggested 24-gauge) wire around the contraption at the top of my dowel rod, Jari warned us all that it’s never going to look pretty. After each of the students had been “around the block” a few times, this is when Jari showed us the next stitch, which is basically the same as the first but just a little more sophisticated. Our respective chains of wire links around the dowel rod were becoming longer, and as the class drew to a close, we were shown how to hide the wire ends by looping them inside the chain.

At last, each of us took our chains off the dowel rod and passed them through the draw plate, which in our case was a wooden spatula with progressively smaller, beveled holes that looks like this:

And what went in the plate looking like a haphazard, four-cornered tube that my second-grader might have idly constructed with paper clips comes out looking like this (keep in mind, I’m going to finish it into a bracelet later this weekend!):

If you want to see a stunning example of a finished piece, here’s a link I found on California artist Jenifer Smith’s blog, “The Family Jewels.”

Jari reports that unlike other techniques, there’s not a lot known about the history of Viking knitting, other than the assertion that samples of it were found buried in the tombs of several ancient Viking warriors. Back at the hotel, my Google search turns up a debate on whether the technique is truly the same as trichinopoly (seems like there’s more in favor than not) and several YouTube instructional videos.

If you’re looking for an engaging class in which to flex your customers’ creative muscles, I highly recommend giving this a whirl: “Think you know everything there is to know about knitting? Think again.” While the concept is more akin to doing the back stitch than the Continental stitch, the chance to try something new can be quite appealing. So, too, is the chance to expand your inventory — or at least doing some cross-marketing with your local bead shop.

Have you tried your hand at this technique? What did you think of it? I want to hear from you. Please comment below or drop me a line at positiveyarn@goochandgooch.com.

Just thought I’d share a smile about how the needlearts are enjoying a thoroughly modern twist in the Land Down Under. Click here.

And of course, because I am always thinking of the marketing angle, here’s a thought for the day: Are you reaching out to local art students — not to mention established artists in the community — who might want to experiment with your medium? It doesn’t have to be on a grand scale; maybe it’s a matter of speaking to a class about what your art form is and what your business has to offer. Maybe it’s going to a gallery event and networking a bit with others. Maybe it’s chatting up the local art supply store to see what synergies (oh yes, I used that word) are there for some reciprocal discount coupons or a joint program.

Talk to me: Comment below or email positiveyarn@goochandgooch.com.